Vintage Hargrave

The Slow Food Holiday dinner at the North Fork Table & Inn last Friday was truly one of the culinary highlights of my week. I secured a spot on the wait list and thanks to a cancellation, an actual place at the table. The dinner featured local foodstuffs like sweet Peconic Bay Scallops, Long Island Duck, local potatoes, Wickham apples (in Claudia Fleming’s outrageously wonderful Caramelized Apple Napoleon) paired with Long Island wines. Seated at the same table as Louisa and me and All the Hargraves (Zander, Julie and Anne) was my friend Paulette Satur, whose farm was the source of the dinner vegetables as well as a lively foursome of Pat Mundus, daughter of famed Montauk shark fisherman Frank Mundus, her husband Earl, Barbara Close, founder of the holistic health care company Naturopathica, her beau Courtney, a Bukowski fan, sailor,  chef and a sort of hardware mogul who I think specializes in selling (thousands of) doorknobs to hotels.

Each of the courses was paired to a particular wine, including the 2008 Social Club white produced by Brooklyn Oenology, the 2008 McCall Vineyard Pinot Noir Rose (which I tasted again just last night with the vintner himself– a story for another day) and the 2007 Wolffer Estate Late Harvest Chardonnay. The true vinous star of the evening, however, was a wine that was not listed on the menu at all: a delicious  2007 The Vineyard Merlot served alongside the Roasted Hudson Valley Ringneck Pheasant Breast.

The Hargraves actually sold their vineyards and winery (now Hargrave Borghese) ten years ago and this was the first wine they’d produced since the sale. (Technically it can’t actually be called Hargrave hence The Vineyard moniker.) Louisa stood up to explain that the wine was her gift to the dinner guests: it was made by the Hargraves with an assist from Eric Fry from grapes grown in Russ McCall’s vineyard in Cutchogue (harvested by all Hargraves) making it perhaps the single-most communal North Fork product consumed that night- not to mention a wonderful legacy for Zander, Julie and Anne.

Louisa Hargrave, vintner (photo Bruce Jaffe)

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2 responses to this post.

  1. Lettie!

    I didn’t know that you made the move officially…that’s great. Now we HAVE to find a time to get together, probably after the holidays at this point.

    I don’t have a new email for you (just an old work one) so shoot me an email sometime.

    Reply

  2. Your blog keeps getting better and better! Your older articles are not as good as newer ones you have a lot more creativity and originality now keep it up!

    Reply

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